Penampang’s colourful weekend market

13 March 2014| last updated at 09:22PM

It is a showcase of exotic fruits, seafood, local delicacies and music, writes Olivia Miwil

TAMU Donggongon, the weekly market on Thursdays and Fridays in the centre of Penampang town in Sabah, is my sister’s favourite place. We visit the market, a 15-minute drive from Kota Kinabalu, at least once in three months.

The market is a hub for most Kadazandusun people from the interior of the district, to sell their produce. This lends the place some interesting cultural aspects especially for visitors and the younger generation.

Traders converse in their native tongue among themselves but are also fluent in Malay. They are friendly and more than willing to pose for photographs and share a few words about their produce.

TRIBAL  SHOWCASE

At a live traditional gong performance, visitors are invited to join in a Sumazau dance. The handmade gongs are sold by a middle-aged Rungus woman from Kudat, 150km away.

The gong players are retirees from surrounding villages who perform for the love of it and not for a fee. One of them, who only wants to be known as Peter, says: “We are happy to be treated to drinks in the evening and, of course, delighted if we get some commission from the sales.”

Next to the band are two Chinese-looking traders. They are Sino-Kadazan, whose ancestors had married Chinese immigrants. Their wares — traditional costumes, accessories and handicrafts — are usually worn during special functions including weddings and the annual harvest festival in May.

UNIQUE DELICACIES

Another interesting find is sago worms (locally known as butod) packed in plastic bags filled with air. Trader Anna Gudin sells 30 worms for RM18.

Locals believe the butod is a cure for asthma and that it can reduce cholesterol.

“Many choose to eat them alive as it tastes better and fresher than when  cooked,” she says, squeezing the worm to show its white flesh.

The next exotic delicacy I find is pickled fish (bosuo or tansom) and marinated wild ginger (tuhau). Both appetite-rousing side dishes are aromatic and have strong flavours.

Fruit lovers should not leave the market without trying two local fruits — bambangan and tarap. Bambangan tastes like ripened mango with a bitter tinge. However, locals prefer to pickle the fruit. As for the spiky tarap, the white pulpy meaty pods are sweet.

Also look for dried seafood products which are mostly from Sabah’s east coast. These dried fish are meatier than those from other parts of the country.

TIME TO EAT

After spending almost an hour at the market, we head for family-run restaurant Mee Sup Pipin in Jalan Tomposik, a three-minute drive away.

The eatery, operating since the 1960s, serves various dishes from its original mee sup Pipin to stuffed tofu and braised chicken feet. It’s crowded on Sundays.

“My father used to carry buckets of noodles to sell at Tamu Donggongon and over time, the dish became a household name,” says Rosina Pipin, adding that most items are priced under RM10.

KILLING TIME IN PENAMPANG

Other places to visit in the bustling Penampang district include the St. Michael Catholic Church perched on a steep hill on the far side of town.

Built by Monsignor August Wachter, the building survived World War II but underwent reconstruction a few years later. Its charming facade attracts couples who often use it as a backdrop for their wedding photos.

For another cultural icon, go to Monsopiad Cultural Village to learn the story of a fearsome warrior named Monsopiad who lived in the village of Kuai nearly 200 years ago. Don’t miss the gallery which has 42 skulls hanging from rafters and a monolith exhibit.

Wildlife lovers should not miss Lok Kawi Wildlife Park, where you can view orangutan, proboscis monkey, rhinos and others. Children are also allowed to ride on elephants here.

Tamu Donggongon
Opens every Thursday
and Friday.
GPS: 5.914703,116.101442

Mee Sup Pipin
Opens 6am-3pm (weekdays), 2.30am-3pm (weekends)
GPS: 5.914478,116.12451

Monsopiad Cultural Village
Opens daily from 9am-5pm
GPS: 5.87116,116.053364

Lok Kawi Wildlife Park
Opens daily 9.30am-5.30pm
GPS: 5.854938,116.070186

Sago worm