BY OLIVIA MIWIL AND EMMA LISA NOORAZMI - 4 SEPTEMBER 2014 @ 8:09 AM
It’s the season for native fruit in Sabah. Kristy Inus, Olivia Miwil and Emma Lisa Noorazmi take a trip out of Kota Kinabalu in search of local delights
From late July to end-September, fruit hunters usually make their way out of Kota Kinabalu. City dwellers are known to make day trips to the north, south and east of the State capital to savour fruit sold at roadside stalls.
Going north takes them to Kudat, a three-hour drive that passes through the districts of Tuaran, Kota Belud and Kota Marudu.
Southwards takes them to the border town of Sipitang via Papar and Beaufort while eastwards will either see them going to Ranau or Tambunan via districts of Tamparuli and Penampang.
They look out for local delights such as dalit (a durian species with uniquely red or orange flesh) and sweet tangy tarap, mango-like bambangan or belunu which looks like mango but tastes like soursop.
There are also seasonal favourites such as mangosteen, rambutan, jackfruit, langsat while watermelon, banana and mango are available all year round.
DALIT
Destination: Jalan Papar Lama
There are more than 20 fruit stalls along the roadside south of Kota Kinabalu, popular for dalit, a local durian species also known as dahit. This indigenous fruit is in season from late July until September.
Prices range from RM10 to RM30 per kg. This year, prices are low and local dalit lovers as well as busloads of tourists have been making their way to the alternative route that links south-west coast districts such as Papar, Sipitang, Beaufort and Keningau in the interior.
Edna Yakop, 45, who has a stall in Kampung Tanaki along the route, says she takes a half-hour hike into the forest behind her house to collect the fruit.
The mother of three, who has been selling fruit for the last 10 years, offers ripe dalit (which falls from the tree) at RM15 per kilo.
“Some sellers pluck the unripe fruit,” says Edna who also sells vegetables at the weekly market when dalit is not in season.
Suzanah Palansing, 53, from Kampung Ovai, has been in the business for 30 years. She lets others do the hard work, depending on suppliers from the surrounding areas.
“I buy from them in bulk,” says Suzanah who sells red and yellow dalit at RM30 per kilo. “The cheaper ones have thin flesh.”
BAMBANGAN
Destination: Jalan Tamparuli-Ranau
The strong, sweet smell of the mango-like bambangan can make heads - even motorists’ - turn. It is native to Sabah and though occasionally eaten fresh, most locals prefer it fermented and served as a savoury dish.
Roadside stall owner Adry Sukiman says: “ In addition to bambangan,we sell durian, rambutan, langsat, mangosteen, campulut (jackfruit) and banana.”
The east-bound route sees tourists flocking to Kundasang in Ranau where the Mount Kinabalu National Park is located.The road is also the gateway to east coast districts such as Sandakan, Tawau, Lahad Datu and Semporna.
Another stall operator, Kopong, says he earns extra during the fruit season as there is a high demand, especially from tourists who don’t complain about the prices.
“Koreans like mangosteen and rambutan while those from China love durian. As for Europeans, only some will stop to taste each fruit,” he says, adding that he charges between RM5 and RM10 for sampling.
WHOLE ROASTED COCONUTS
Destination: Jalan Sulaman
A drive to the Tuaran coast will bring day trippers past rows of stalls selling roasted coconuts.
Priced from RM3 to RM4 each, the coconuts are roasted in ovens made of drums, and once charred thoroughly for 30 minutes, they are ready to be served.
The hot coconuts are cut open and served immediately to customers who swear by their health benefits.
Sweet coconut pudding and grilled clams, which go well with the coconuts, are also popular.
Aina Leman, 86, says she gets her supply of coconuts from Kota Belud, Kota Marudu and Kudat.
TARAP
Destination: Jalan Tamparuli-Kiulu
Tarap has bristles on its skin and soft yellowish white flesh. Its taste has been likened to banana, jackfruit or soursop but the difference is in the aroma. The seasonal fruit is native to Borneo and is sold from RM2 to RM10 each.
BELUNU
Destination: Jalan Penampang-Tambunan
There was a time when the strength of an indigenous tribesman was based on how well he could fell belunu from the tree by hurling a stick.
The fibrous, mango-like fruit which tastes like very firm soursop, is also native to Borneo. Found in many west coast and interior districts, the challenge — like the old tale — is in harvesting the fruit as the tree can grow really tall.
Rosie Inong, who runs a roadside stall in Kampung Togudon, Penampang, says the belunu or bundu is seasonal and is prized by the natives.
“Our elders say you can get a slight ‘kick’ out of it if you eat too much,” she says, adding that it has yet to happen to her.
Sold between RM1 and RM3 each, the fruit has a strong smell.
“Some prefer to eat it when the flesh is still hard,” says Rosie who gets her supply from two old trees in her orchard.
Whole Roasted Coconuts
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