By Olivia Miwil
KOTA KINABALU: As dusk falls in Kota Belud, the scent of sizzling penjaram fills the air as Mariam Magit fries thousands for eager Ramadan buffet diners.
As patrons break fast, Mariam, fondly known as Kak Yam, barely gets a break as buffet diners return for her signature penjaram, made using a family secret recipe.
Penjaram, a traditional delicacy from Kota Belud, is commonly enjoyed during festive seasons and family gatherings.
It is served as a snack with tea or coffee or as part of festive meals during Ramadan and family gatherings.
At the buffet, Kak Yam offers two varieties — pandan and palm sugar — with the latter popular for its rich flavour that is not overly sweet.
"We usually prepare about 25 kilogrammes of flour mixture, and from that we can make around 3,000 pieces for the daily demand.
"The moment we finish frying them, diners come, and some take up to six pieces in one go.
"It is delicious while hot, but equally tasty when cold," she said when met at a Ramadan buffet in the city.
She added the delicacy can last up to 27 hours while maintaining its signature texture — crispy on the outside and fluffy on the inside.
Due to the popularity of their penjaram, Kak Yam said this year marks the third time her family has been invited as a vendor at the buffet, which features about 850 dishes from across the Nusantara region.
Throughout the month-long buffet, Kak Yam is assisted by her daughter, son-in-law and another relative as they keep up with constant demand from diners.

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