Sabahan chef shares grandmother's 100-year-old "Bubur Yilik" recipe to celebrate Kaamatan

 By Olivia Miwil

May 26, 2026 @ 9:46am

Chef Melvin Gatu, 35, is spotlighting Binuburan Manuk Kampung, or Bubur Yilik, a traditional village-style porridge recipe passed down from his grandmother for over a century. — PICTURE COURTESY OF MAGGI MALAYSIA

KOTA KINABALU: For chef Melvin Gatu, Kaamatan is more than a harvest festival; it is a reflection of heritage, family, and the culinary traditions connecting generations.

This year, the 35-year-old Ranau native is spotlighting Binuburan Manuk Kampung, or Bubur Yilik, a traditional village-style porridge recipe passed down from his grandmother for over a century.

The comforting dish is a staple at family gatherings and cultural celebrations, particularly during Kaamatan.

Built on simple ingredients such as Beras Tadong, wild kodop mushrooms, and tapioca leaves, the porridge was once a staple meal in large Kadazan-Dusun households.

Bubur Yilik is a staple at family gatherings and cultural celebrations, particularly during Kaamatan. — PICTURE COURTESY OF MAGGI MALAYSIA

Melvin said these ingredients remain easily available at local markets, or tamu, with some villagers still harvesting them fresh from the wild.

"Kaamatan is a celebration that is deeply tied to rice and appreciation for the harvest. Binuburan Manuk Kampung reflects that meaning perfectly because it is a humble, rice-based dish that represents togetherness and gratitude.

"My grandmother used to cook it to feed her large family of 11 children. For me, this dish carries both cultural and personal heritage values.

"It is warm, hearty, and comforting, he said, adding that porridge appeals to all palates as a universal comfort food.

Melvin, who spent a decade building an international culinary career overseas, described the dish as having a rich, layered profile.

"The wild kodop mushrooms provide a deep umami flavour, while the tapioca leaves add a slight bitterness with earthy herbal notes that balance the dish beautifully," he said.

Alongside the porridge, Melvin is reviving Linombur Bubuk Om Tulod-Ulod, a traditional, raw side dish made with dried shrimps, cucumber, lime juice, and tulod-ulod, a natural souring ingredient used in Kadazan-Dusun cuisine.

"Based on my observation and a little research, I noticed that this dish is rarely served or promoted during festivals. Maybe it is more of a family home-style dish that people cook for daily meals.

"I found this recipe in an old Sabah traditional cuisine cookbook, and I was inspired to bring it back so more locals can learn and remember this traditional dish," he said.